ELEUTHERA
The northeastern corner of the Great Bahama Bank is bordered by the island of Eleuthera (from the Greek for freedom). Located 60 miles east of Nassau, halfway between the Abacos to the northwest and Cat Island to the southeast, the island is over 100 miles long and only 3 miles across at its widest point.
Eleuthera is known as the birthplace of the Bahamas and was the site of the first proper New World settlement in the islands. Originally called Cigatoo by the local Arawak Indian population, the island was used as a staging post by Spanish ships laden with treasure from the Americas. Stopping briefly at the northern tip of the island, they would rest and fill their casks with fresh water before sailing north to Bermuda, turning to starboard and making the homeward journey across the Atlantic. Then, in 1648, a group of British settlers arrived, seeking religious freedom and calling themselves the “Elutherian Adventurers”.
The new settlers split up into groups, some of them using Preachers Cave for worship and shelter from the periodic hurricanes which passed trough the islands. With the arrival of further settlers, townships were established at Spanish Wells and at Dunmore Town, on Harbour Island, now known locally as “Briland” (a contracted pronunciation of Harbour Island) and often described as the prettiest of the Bahamian islands. Dunmore Town came in effect to be the first capital of the Bahamas, and the town is rich in examples of old colonial style buildings with open verandas and beautiful gardens.
After the establishment of the Bahamas as a British Crown Colony, the Brilanders were granted land on the mainland of Eleuthera in 1783, much of which is still farmed today by the early settlers’ descendants. The inhabitants of Spanish Wells and nearby St Georges Cay are largely descendants of the early English farmers and Scottish shipbuilders. Among the lingering traditions on Eleuthera are that the islanders still catch turtles for food and, although illegal, turtle shell is on open display. In odd contrast to all this history, in which the locals take great pride, most folk use electric golf carts to get around.
DIVING
Much of the diving and snorkeling takes place on the more exposed Atlantic side of Eleuthera and inside the protective barrier reef off the north of the island. This reef is 7 miles long and known as the devils backbone due to the fearsomely jagged coral ridges which come close to the surface in many areas, and have been responsible for the destruction of many ships.
Traveling south down the island, the main settlement is Governors Harbour, which has its own airstrip, a superb sheltered cove, a Club Med and a few other fully inclusive resorts in the area. The best diving to be found this end of the island is in the extreme south off the vertical drop-offs south of Bannerman Town. The reef here stretches southeast past little San Salvador and then on to Cat Island. Little San Salvador itself, however, has been sold to the Princess Cruise Line and other visitors are discouraged from the island. Live aboard dive boats are therefore the best way to travel the pristine reefs and fabulous virgin walls.
